Larry wrote:
In mid 70s watched you on wedu and when I was out in so pasadena stopped to say
hello. Called TIS about sox hitch-hikers, what about ones that are smaller and have root like a
carrot, is that root edible? Attacked the sox pods by tilling. Good to hear you
on the air again. Missed the interview with Roger P. –sorry slept….
Dear Larry,
Thanks for being a loyal fan. Not sure what you meant about BIG, but yes, I’m
still around. I don’t recommend eating the root of the weed. I’m not sure exactly
what you have and have my doubts about eating any roots off any weeds.
Keep listening to WTIS and call in with your garden question! Look forward to
hearing from you.
My Best,
Stan
Richard wrote:
Planted Palmetto St. Augustine on 22-23 April = laid 450 sq ft on two sides of a
sidewalk. Watered per Extension Service instructions. Son continued watering
while I was gone 05-14 May. On return see much brown. Stopped watering, except
for rain. Applied ~ 5# of Immunox Lawn Disease Control Granules to the 450 sq
ft of new Sod for Fungi infection on 08 June. Brown seems to be increasing.
Applied Chinch Bug control today, but dead grass looks like straw, not like
runners are dead due to Chinch Bugs. Green part grows quite well. Saw your show
at “Thunderdome” {aka orange juice field} this past Sunday = i was old
guy with long white hair and beard on your right = a very fine presentation,
also good stand-up comedy routine. Murf
Dear Richard:
You’ve treated for both possibilities, fungus and chinch. I’m leaning more toward fungus
than chinch. Chinch bug normally starts near the hottest areas such as the sidewalk or
street. A fungus normally looks like irregular patches that grow together. Realize that
new grass has a relatively small root system, so when it is injured it is more difficult for
it to grow back quickly.
You may wish to even put in a few trays of plugs into the bad areas to see if this helps.
Thanks for the kind words and hope you enjoyed the Home Show at the Trop.
My Best,
Stan
Alicia wrote:
My husband and I live in Evans Ga and have been trying to get our grass to grow
in our lawn this past year. We have had a drought and we also have alot of
trees. Some of the grass has been doing ok and has taken off, but there are
sections of grass that is brown and really want do much of anything. Our soil
test says it’s neutral, and the lawns gets enough sun throughout the day in our
opinion, some sections more than others. Any suggestions?
Dear Alicia:
If it’s conducive to the landscape, you might want to go with a ground cover.
Possibly a whole bed such as perennial peanut, liriope, mondo grass (the small
variety) small ivies, or low growing ground cover, fig.
Many people use pavers or brick work to make patios and walkways, or decks.
Lawn furniture such as benches, small tables also make more interesting lawn
views. Don’t limit yourself to grass, allow the imagination to run free.
My Best,
Stan
Our lastest gardening partner is John Williams from John Williams Sprinkler Inc., located in St. Petersburg Florida. John and his knowledgeable staff have the ability to handle any residential or commercial applications you may have.
Please tune in to watch on July 10, 2011 as we discuss drilling wells, installing sprinklers the way the pro’s do it, we will give out handy tips and tricks that will help keep you in the know. If you’d like to contact John you can go to his website at http://www.sprinklersandwells.com/ or call him today at: 727-552-9874.
Marsha wrote:
What can I fertilize St. Augustine grass to grow under the shade of oak trees???
My front yard is half shaded by oaks and half shaded by other trees; the grass
grows well under the other trees.
Would I fertilize with the same product under both shaded areas????
Dear Marsha,
Depending upon the variety of St. Augustine, some will grow best under the shade of trees, such as Floratine, Bitter Blue, Raleigh or Seville.
Under dense shade consider using a bed of ground cover such as English ivy, fern, dwarf jasmine or creeping fig. Use a good turf builder such
as Turf Builder made by Scotts. Yes, use the same fertilizer for both shade areas.
My best,
Stan
Sandra wrote:
Seems we are not able to purchase any fertilizer in the local Home Depot here in
Pinellas County…we are told that home owners will be banned from using the
stuff.
Do you have any recommendations as to what we can do…..we have had extremely
bad results with professional lawn care people….
Thanks.
Dear Sandra,
This fertilizer ban may be superceded by State law. There are 67 counties in the state of Florida, so it becomes confusing when each small area creates their own rule.
Personally, education with fertilizer is more important than a total ban. Without fertilizer it is difficult to have the successful results we are all looking for as growers.
Also, a government that governs best, governs least in my opinion.
Hope this is helpful.
My best,
Stan
Question: Our majestic oak trees make growing grass underneath them a huge problem. What types of grasses can be grown in these areas?
Grass, like all plants, develops food in its leaves and requires sunlight. Areas such as you describe are quite common and unavoidable. St. Augustine (Stenotaphrum secundatum) is a good variety and if the light is filtered during the day, this type of grass will spread. Some of the other grasses that have been adapted to lower light levels include: Floratine or Seville. If grass is not a necessity for you, try some of the border-type plantings such as beds of Boston fern or creeping fig.
Weeds are like a red flag that signals you have a turf problem. If the pH of the soil is unbalanced, weeds are more likely to invade your property. Check your pH and make sure you have the proper balance for your type of grass. The presence of spurge weed may indicate a nematode problem. Dead spots and brown patches may indicate that feeder roots have been damaged by mole crickets or fungus diseases. New lawns that have been thrown on top of old lawns without adequate sterilization often succumb to nematodes.
Watering should also be checked. Too much water can encourage dollar weeds; too little water and the grass will weaken, allowing beggar weed or creeping Charlie to take over. Lawns that are overly compacted are also more susceptible to weed infestation. Again, a healthy lawn is the best defense against weeds; but if you have a problem, here are some tips for getting rid of these uninvited guests.
MR. GREEN THUMB RULE
Never use a sprayer for weed killer and then reuse it for insecticides or fungicides. Mark the weed-killer sprayer for WEED KILLER ONLY! Even thorough washing may not get rid of these potent chemicals, so don’t risk contamination. Each chemical has its own special purpose; use them all
Having a healthy, green lawn around your home is like having a nice frame around a work of art. It adds beauty to your home. Selecting the right grass for your lawn is important. Factors such as the pH of your soil and determining the amount of money, time, and care you want to put into your lawn should be taken into consideration. I often make the analogy, when teaching, that it’s better to have an old, reliable Chevy that’s properly maintained than to have a Cadillac you can’t afford to keep up. The suitability and maintenance demands of your lawn can be just as exacting as with the upkeep on your car.
The type of lawn that should be grown depends in large measure on the size of your property, the amount you wish to spend, and the time you can devote to its upkeep. Those who have semi-rural property on several acres possibly can get by with fertilizing and mowing the grasses already in the soil. This will provide an orderly expanse of green that looks neat and attractive. But for the majority of homeowners with homes on normal-sized city lots, a lawn should be planned and started from scratch. This means total preparation of the soil, careful selection of the type of grass and proper upkeep of the lawn to maintain its appearance and keep it free of insects and disease.
MR. GREEN THUMB RULE
Select the right lawn grass for your area. Bitter Blue St. Augustine does better in shade. Bahia is the most drought-tolerant. Bermuda is the finest looking, but also the highest in maintenance. Select by learning about your lawn areas and knowing what the best choice is for you.
PLANNING AND PREPARING YOUR LAWN
Installing a lawn means more than merely filling the open spaces between trees, shrubs, and flowerbeds. You have to determine how much of each open area gets full sun or partial sun and which is fully shaded all day. These factors are crucial to your choice of the type of grass to plant. Soil analysis also will help you choose a variety that will do well.
WATER: THE KEY TO A GOOD LAWN
After you’ve installed your grass, watering is crucial. Some people water their lawns only during drought periods, and some won’t water for some time after it has rained, mistakenly thinking that the rain offered sufficient moisture. Lawns use an abundance of water, especially during the warm, humid season.
Whatever watering system you use, check to make sure you are getting adequate coverage. Sprinkler systems are designed to overlap, thus curbing brown spots, but even the best sometimes miss a few patches. Check out your system and find ways to compensate. A healthy lawn will demand a reliable deep-watering system. Your lawn will get some additional moisture from rain, normal condensation, and even morning dew; but you can’t really rely on these. Nor can you rely on occasional short waterings. It is better to water once or twice a week with 1⁄2 to 1 inch per application than to sprinkle lightly every day. This develops a stronger and deeper root system opposed to a shallow one.
LAWN CARE AND FEEDING
Your grass also will need feeding—not merely to promote health but also to help it choke out weeds that inevitably invade any lawn. Healthy grass will fight for its own space in the ground, and this battle should be reinforced with fertilizer to enable the grass to hold its own. Many horticulturists believe in fertilizing only once or twice a year. But more frequent, lighter fertilizer applications seem to be the secret to continuing the good growth of turf. All lawns need NPK—nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium—but other minor elements, such as iron, also are advisable for optimum turf growth. Check the label on your fertilizer to make sure you are feeding your lawn all the elements needed for best results.
MOWERS AND MOWING
Many gardeners spend considerable money, time, and effort installing a lawn, then attack it with a mower that does little more than lacerate the grass. Then they wonder why the turf deteriorates after a few weeks with rough brown tips on the leaves. Every lawn deserves care and consideration when it is being mowed, just as attention should be given to the type of mower being used and its condition. The height at which you should set your mower depends upon the type of grass you have. St. Augustine should be kept at 3 inches and the dwarf variety at 2 inches. Bermuda and zoysia look best when cut to 2 inches, as do most other lawn grasses. After you have planted a lawn, allow it to grow fairly high before mowing, then mow once at a setting of about 5 or 6 inches. Then make another pass to cut it down to the final, desired height. Place your mower on level concrete to make the height adjustment, measuring from the blade to the ground for accuracy. Never try to mow very high grass down to 2 inches as this may result in damage to the grass. Mowing grass is like having a haircut at the barber: gradual shortening will achieve the desired results better than a heavy-handed attack!
